6: Mission: Accomplished

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Anna Burnley’s fondest childhood memory is when she would sneak into the kitchen at the Clarke Cooke House, steal a few mussels, and tie them to a string that she’d submerge in the bay to catch crabs. Back then, she recalls, “you could roam Bowen’s and Bannister’s wharves at even 5 years old and no one was concerned where your parents were.”

For most of her life, Anna’s father has been the general manager at the Clarke Cooke House, arguably Newport’s most famed restaurant. “We saw how much hard work my dad put in; how mentally, physically and emotionally demanding it was,” she recalls. Then and there, Anna declared that she would never pursue a career in the restaurant business. All of which makes the fact that she co-owns four local restaurants — including Mission and Winner Winner — all the more ironic.

Anna met her future husband and business partner, Tyler Burnley, at Rogers High School. They became high school sweethearts and later headed off to New York City, where Anna lived with her twin sister Julia and studied fashion design, and Tyler landed at BLT Prime, the steakhouse helmed by celebrated chef David Burke. In the kitchen, he befriended Chad Hoffer, a North Dakota native whom the couple would later introduce to the City by the Sea — and to Julia, his future bride.

Back in New York, diverse neighborhoods teemed with authentic, thoughtful cooking. From Brooklyn to the Bronx, the foursome was inspired by restaurants that conjured up creative dishes and menus that were inventive and crafted with purpose. “It was good to be in the heart of what was relatively innovative at the time,” explains Chad. The restaurants that made the biggest impression, however, weren’t noted for their critical prestige or swank surroundings, but for simple, seasonal dishes that always delivered.

The couples thought their favorite seaside town might embrace this lighter, tighter, seasonal-driven approach.

“We came back to Newport at a point — this is almost 10 years ago — when there was no real food scene,” concedes Anna. “‘Foodie’ was like this up-and-coming thing people were just coming to understand.”

Adds Chad, “I don’t think we really were developing a concept based on a void in Newport, but more based on what we were excited about and the way we had learned to cook, which was farm-to-table and focusing on seasonal ingredients.”

At the time, new culinary concepts were just emerging. Social media, Chad points out, was not quite the behemoth it is today. (Facebook had just gone mobile, Instagram was in its infancy.) Thus, finding food inspiration required pounding the pavement and doing real in-the-field detective work. They found it across multiple boroughs … and continents.

“I went to visit my mom when she lived in Italy,” says Tyler. “There was a place there, Ristorante Nordkapp, and the guy only served one prix-fixe meal that changed every day and was like four or five courses. It was just him, his wife and a dishwasher. I thought it was the coolest thing ever.”

So when a small restaurant space became available near the very end of Thames Street, the four opened Thames Street Kitchen (better known as TSK), with a seasonal menu that changed daily, comprising four appetizers, four entrées and a pair of simple desserts. (If you had the pillowy cinnamon sugar donuts derived from a Thomas Keller recipe, you likely still dream about them.)

“I knew from the get-go we were going to be alright,” recalls Tyler. “After I worked in New York, I knew that there was a market on Aquidneck Island for real, fine dining food.” With the cuisine center stage, the decidedly unpretentious 40-seat BYOB restaurant with the contemporary farmhouse vibe quickly made a name for itself with starters like veal carpaccio, foie gras, sea bass crudo and spicy beef tartare. Entrées including striped bass served with quinoa and zucchini topped with a charred onion soubise, or the sirloin flap with baba ganoush, shishito and pistachio, were rich and satisfying. Even the seemingly simplest of dishes, like their renowned fried chicken served with honeyed spätzle, offered multilayered, intense flavors — and not by coincidence.

“There are complexities behind it, like the preparation, the brining,” explains Chad. “It takes a couple days’ work before the chicken is on the plate. It’s still ‘simple,’ but it’s one of those things that takes time to execute properly.”

By the restaurant’s second year, the proprietors found that their clientele shared a passion for eating food with a history and a passion behind it. They also identified a clear gap in the market here: There wasn’t a locally owned, dedicated burger joint. “That’s where Mission came about,” explains Anna, who gave birth to the couple’s first daughter between the opening of TSK and Mission. (“I always joke that every time we opened a new restaurant, I was pregnant,” she laughs.)

Mission debuted at the end of 2013 on pedigreed ground — the Marlborough Street location was the former home of Billy Goode’s, a watering hole named after a Prohibition violator whose speakeasy, The Mission, stood on the site. The team stayed true to their philosophy: only do a few things but do them flawlessly. The quick-serve, casual dining restaurant’s menu was inked on a roll of butcher paper that hung behind the register and was confined to house-ground burgers and hot dogs, falafel and french fries.

“We always limited the menu to focus on technique,” says Chad. “It’s as much for us as it is for the diner. It’s just having the integrity of making everything from scratch; pushing yourself to do things better.”

By the time TSK’s fifth anniversary approached, the couples had three children between them and the keen sense to close the restaurant while it was still on top, and to come back with a new, more sustainable concept. Opened in the spring of 2016 (and recently offered for sale), Winner Winner took its cue from one of TSK’s most in-demand dishes, serving fried and rotisserie chicken, sandwiches and sides like black-eyed peas and ham, mac and cheese, brussels sprout slaw and flaky biscuits with honey butter.

Operating two quick-serve restaurants, the thirty-somethings thrived on efficiency and consistency. But Chad, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, found himself longing for more creativity. “Chad immensely missed being in the kitchen and working with ingredients that [let him] come up with something beyond just burgers and chicken,” says Anna. “He really missed the plating techniques and all of that, so we thought, ‘Let’s do it again.’”

They had heard through the rumor mill that Chef Albert Bouchard, best known for his eponymous restaurant on Thames Street, was looking for a long-term chef for his Revolving Door restaurant, which was originally designed to host visiting chefs. “TSK at the Revolving Door” (which they call TSK 2.0) has become one of those “only in Newport” collaborations that harmoniously brings together one of the city’s most established culinary visionaries and the next generation of enterprising millennials.

In 2019, with her third baby in tow, Anna spotted a for lease sign hanging in an empty Middletown hardware store on Aquidneck Avenue that she used to frequent with her father. (At this point, Julia and Chad were divorced and Julia had left the group to return to her career as a casting producer. Anna fully supported the decision, though she says she “loved having my sister along for the ride with me.”) She quietly met with the leasing agent, talked to the landlord and conceptualized a design before pitching the idea of a second Mission to “the boys,” as she calls Chad and Tyler, her partners in what is now known as the Mission Group. With successful models to draw upon, they agreed. “I feel that little area around us is going to become the next up-and-coming spot,” says Anna, citing neighbors like Diego’s and Clementine’s.

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The business took off, and when the neighboring coffeehouse closed, they decided it made the most sense to shutter Mission Newport and consolidate efforts in an expanded Middletown restaurant. The larger space allowed them to introduce the “Mission Mornings” menu featuring egg sandwiches and coffee drinks.

But Mission Group’s largest venture has been years in the making. Nomi Park at the recently opened Wayfinder Hotel is full service; offers breakfast, lunch and dinner; seats 130 including a full bar; and services an event space, a small cafe and (in the warmer months) the pool. Anna, who serves as the de facto creative director for the Mission Group, had free rein to create a retro-meets-contemporary design concept that brings to mind Palm Springs, “with pops of color, because that’s very much the Mission brand,” she says.

Today, with four restaurants in their portfolio, the Mission Group says the future of Newport’s dining scene is bright. “I think what’s interesting about the food scene now is that you’re getting a lot of homegrown, small restaurants that are popping up,” says Anna. She points to Broadway as a shining example. “It’s the urban side of Newport, and I think more of that is slowly making its way into downtown areas like the wharves and Upper Thames Street. I think once it does, that we’ll become more of a food hub.”

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Adds Chad, “You see the quality rising and the demand for the quality is more there, as well. I think in the next few years — maybe five years — it’s going to be on par with some of the bigger cities. I really do.”

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This article originally appeared on Newport Daily News: Mission Accomplished